Beinn Eighe and Beinn  Ghobhlach

Beinn Eighe

With expansive views taking in Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eoin in the Flowerdale Forest, and the Graham, Beinn a’ Chearcaill, the northern shore of Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair is an impressive spot for a snack break.  The Triple Buttress dominates the skyline to the south, and the steep eastern cliffs of Sail Mhor rise up along the loch’s western shore.  It had taken the nine of us about two hours to get here and, somewhat surprisingly, we had the place to ourselves.  The sky was blue and it was pleasantly warm. 

 Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair looked inviting but there was general agreement that the water was perhaps a little too cold for a dip to cool off.  Only Neil’s dog, Angus, was brave enough to give it a try. 

It was soon time to make a move as we still had the harder section of our planned route ahead.  Ruadh-stac Mor was our next objective.  Getting there involved a short stroll round the eastern side of the loch, before leaving the loch behind and aiming for the short scree chute that cuts into the western slope of the bealach between Ruadh-stac Mhor and Coinneach Mhor. 

 Passing below the Triple Buttress, we briefly slipped into the shade; a welcome break from the sun.  We were quickly gaining height though and a dash up a short scree slope brought us to the bottom of the scree chute.  Loose rock and steep terrain meant hands were required to get us up this obstacle.  Reaching the bealach, we were welcomed by a cooling, light breeze and dramatic views of Beinn Eighe.  It’s a spectacular bulk of a mountain that just seems to be slowly crumbling away before your eyes.

 Wendell writes:

Triple Buttress - East Buttress (Difficult)

The morning started with club members meeting up at the Ling hut Car Park. As we made our way, the team stretched out to the point where there were a number of smaller groups. The team gathered at the north end of Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair for the first break of the day enjoying the warmth from the sun. We then continued as a single group to the source of Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair at which time the climbers - Wendell & Stuart - split heading westerly to the Triple Buttress area to gain the Eastern Buttress, Quartzite Tier by a narrow terrace above the Sandstone Tier. With precision and cautious foot placement on this narrow ledge we made our way to the start of the East Buttress climb which is graded as a Difficult.

We are now in the shade and decide to add a layer of clothing and gear up for the climb. The wind was near non-existent contrary to the weather report of -7 with wind chill. Wendell led the first pitch on good but cold holds tip toeing around loose rock to a good size shelf. Stuart followed and carried on leading the second pitch. Wendell then took the third pitch and Stuart took the fourth. Loose rock was a concern throughout the climb and care had to be taken. The last 50 or so metres was a simple scramble to the top of the climb.  The climb took about three hours to complete. 

With good visibility and two optional descents, and dreading the long walk back on the foot path we chose to descend the southern slope of Spidean Coire nan Clach heading to Furan Mor. The descent was on flowing scree at first then steep firm grass & heather turf which presented a challenge to the knees while carrying heavy climbing packs on the descent. Arriving at the Allt a’ Choire Dhuibh Mhoir, Stuart cooled down in the flowing cold water as he was dressed for a cold day climbing including long johns. Crossing on slippery rocks and shallow moving water to pick up the foot path back to the car park. 

We were about a half hour behind the main walking party on the return. Thirsty and hot we were glad to be back at the car park after having a great day climbing.

Taking part:  Brian, Emma, Mathew, Nell, Paul, Wendell, Stuart, prospective member Neil and Guest Anni.

Words: Brian and Wendell

Photos: Brian and Paul

 Beinn Ghobhlach

Peter writes:

Marion and I employed our now customary stratagem of starting in advance of the main party in order to give ourselves a chance of being on the top of the hill at about the same time.  The suggested route over the ridge and between the corrie lochans for a direct assault was new to us, and proved less of a grind than we had expected.  The main party caught up with us for a sheltered pause a little below the summit, but on the summit there was less shelter and a cold easterly breeze, and the others soon left to descend to the east and back over the ridge, I hope via the beautiful Loch a' Bhealaich (our route of ascent on previous occasions).  We decided to follow the original proposal of following the stony summit ridge to the northwest top, and having lost the chilly breeze as we lost height, sat for some time soaking up the views and the sunshine before descending into Coire Dearg.  Instead of following the burn down to the Scoraig path we struck south over level ground to pass to the west of Loch na h-Uidhe and rejoin our ascent route back to the car, too late to join the others at the Inchbae but well content with our day.

Taking part: Catherine, Ewen, Richard, May, Stella, Mira, Peter, Marion and Catherine’s guest

Words: Catherine and Peter

Photos: May and Catherine