Knoydart Weekend Meet

Marcus and Karolina looking towards Ladhar Bheinn (hidden in cloud)

 The forecast was not great for the weekend in Knoydart.  So there was a lot of humming and hawing about whether to go.  Numbers dropped as one by one people pulled out for weather and other reasons.  A small, but determined/foolish/optimistic (?) band remained as ferry sailings moved to an amber warning, which meant possibly not sailing, on Friday morning.

Yet they continued. There were missing Corbetts and Marilyns to be climbed.  And the lure of Knoydart pulled people visiting for the first time; or for the second time in a month; or to revisit since the Foundation took over; or to revisit the Old Forge now that it had passed to community ownership.

The weather forecast proved accurate.  The weekend was wet and windy with fierce squalls whipping in from the South West.  But it was a very successful and enjoyable weekend. Corbetts, Marilyns and other smaller hills were successfully climbed, MTB trails were explored. An excellent meal was had in the Lookout Restaurant, and a very sociable weekend was had in the bunkhouse with members of LSCC, who were also in residence (more of which below), and a fire breathing Belgian couple (yes) who had taken refuge in the bunkhouse after their tent was demolished by the wind.

Jim writes:

The  words of  The Clash song  “should I stay or should go” were in my head, as I waited for Arthur to pick me up from my house on Friday morning. The weather forecast for the weekend was poor, plus there was an amber warning for the ferry, meaning a risk that it may not sail.  However, despite these omens I was still keen to go. It had been nearly twenty five years since may last visit, and I was interested to see how things had changed since the community buy out in 1999.

 Myself, Arthur and Karolina arrived in Mallaig about one o’clock. A visit to the Western Isles Ferry Office confirmed the boat to Inverie would sail as planned at half past two. Time enough for a quick spot of lunch before boarding the ferry to Inverie. Once across in Knoydart we made our way to the hostel and made ourselves at home for the weekend to come. Whilst there was some talk of perhaps doing a hill in the late afternoon/evening, no one was sufficiently motivated to venture out in the high winds and heavy showers.

 On Saturday morning, I headed out for the Marilyn Drium na Cluain-airighe. I followed the track marked Mam Uidhe until I came to the second forestry plantation on the map. From there, I made worked my way up to the coll between Beinn Bhreac and my hill, then followed the ridge until I reached the summit cairn. There were a few light showers and strong gusts of wind, no summit views  but all was manageable.  I was checking the GPS on my phone map base to confirm I was indeed on the summit,  when I heard a voice calling out my name. Lisa, who is also a club member and was in Knoydart with the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club had come up the same hill and recognised me at the summit cairn. We didn’t hang about at the summit and retraced our ascent route back to the hostel at Inverie. I hadn’t see Lisa since pre – Covid and it was good to catch up and have her company on the return.

 With a slightly better forecast for Sunday, I headed out again for another small hill, the trump Roinn na Beinne. This proved to be an excellent little hill, affording views to Skye, Rhum , Eigg and into the heart of Knoydart. It is easily ascended from Lagain Bridge on the Inverie to Airor Road. 

 Marcus writes:

The community campsite at Long Beach has spectacular views over Loch Nevis to Mallaig and Rum, when you can see them. The wet and squally weather meant they were mostly obscured by mist and cloud. The increasinging gusts also forced a midnight realignment of the tent as the direction of the wind shifted.

I'd arrived early and was able to take advantage of some sun between the showers to visit the ancient fort at Doune on the Friday, followed by a sampling of the Seven Men ale in the Old Forge. For my Saturday and Sunday hills I teamed up with Karolina and Arthur. First up was Beinn na Caillich, via a particularly long walk in and out which included some interesting river crossings. By climbing up and down via the Mam Li we were able to avoid the worst of the wind. Sgurr Coire Choinnichean's ridge was reached over rough and boggy ground to the north east, with our descent down the even rougher southern slopes which ultimately tipped us into dense bracken. It was with relief that we hit the track back to Inverie. A second visit to the pub and another sampling of the Seven Men was dutifully undertaken!

 Andy writes:

 The ferry dropped us at Inverie on Friday afternoon after a choppy crossing. The weekend outlook was for persistent rain and wind gusting at 50 mph. So, fairly typical for the Knoydart peninsula. I might have been the only visitor who brought a mountain bike and I was lucky enough to have the forest trail all to myself. However I soon realised that the vertiginous nature of the trail was too rich for my skill level and I had to gingerly push my bike up some of the steepest gradients. I had a wonderful day despite the wet conditions.

 Next up was a cycle trip on the road to Airor through the bracing windy wilderness. Sandwiches were munched on a solitary bench overlooking Sandaig bay in the driving rain. Ah…the charms of the west… Further down the road I ditched my bike and struck out on the path up to Roinn na Beinne. The ground was wonderfully boggy and the boots got a good wash. Views from the summit were spectacular and the sun even graced us with a temporary appearance. It was a wonderful weekend trip in good company and Ben the manager at the Knoydart bunkhouse was an exemplary host.

 Taking part: Marcus, Karolina, Jim, Andy and Arthur. With a guest appearance from Lisa.

Words: Arthur, Jim, Marcus and Andy

Photos: Arthur, Jim, Marcus, Andy and Lisa

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Loch Treig Munros; The Easains; The Fara; and Creag Dubh. 29 May 2022