A Spring bloom of hills
Sunrise on Buachaille Etive Mor
I found myself with with a week off on my own since a mountaineering course, re-scheduled from April 2020, had to be cancelled again. In the week prior I grumbled about the mixed weather forecast with brief windows of ideal conditions. It seemed like bad luck for a new found freedom to roam. Luckily though, as I refreshed the BBC Weather map during a Saturday vaccination clinic, a high pressure was now settling over the British Isles. I headed off into the Local Authority of Highland with a plan for the next day and the rest to be decided on the hoof.
Sunday 11th April
Sgurr Thuilm and Sgurr nan Corieachan
Distance 26.6km 1505m ascent
I met Shona at the Glennfinnan viaduct car park at 7am to go round the Glenfinnan horseshoe (now renamed by us as the Glenfinnan Croissant). They are extending the car park so that hill and engineering enthusiasts can squeeze amongst the Harry Potter fans. We biked as far as the descent route from Sgurr nan Corieachan. The ascent was hot work as we struggled to get the layers right from the frozen valley to the warm sunny ridge. The clear shape of the bumpy croissant came into view. We had both by that time fallen on ice on gentle slopes and so it was T-shirts and crampons for the ridge traverse. I did not use my crampons at all last winter season and so may have just been glad to utilise them at last. Sgurr nan Corieachan took about 40 minutes longer than expected to reach as we had underestimated the bumps. Some steeper rocky sections on the descent led us back to the welcome sight of our bikes and the easy roll back down to the car park.
Monday 12th April
Gulvain
21km 1228m ascent
From the Strontian junction we cycled up Glean Fionlighe. It was decidedly chilly at minus 5. As the bikes picked up speed the cold air easily penetrated boots and gloves. We were glad to meet the sun as we ascended and quickly gained the ridge. The air clarity was excellent with stunning views all round. Although the Gaelic name is “hill of noise’ it is probably the quietist top I have ever been on. With no wind it was remarkably silent. The sun was warm and so we could have happily sat at the Cairn for hours.
I did some reconnaissance of the hills around Loch Arkaig which I had in mind for another day and tried to gauge the amount of snow. We descended back to the bikes by which time the Glen had also warmed. Another Walkhighland user had remarked on being a “purist” and against bike use. With my prime objective being enjoyment of the hill and the view I think I would happily wave to such a companion on my way back to the car and leave them to self flagellation of feet.
Tuesday 13th April
Buachaille Etive Mor
15.6km 1326m ascent
I was on my own for today. From the weather radar it appeared like more clouds would form on the West coast. Wider travel restrictions were to ease at the end of the week and so I took the opportunity to go to Glencoe. I had driven through there last summer with some cars quadruple parked so a quieter venture was an unmissable opportunity. On the evening before I had looked up at Coire na Tulaich and didn’t like the the amount of snow on its rim and decided I would ascend and descend from Lairag Gartain. As I was missing the steep ascent I decided to make it more challenging for myself with an early morning rise to try and catch the sunrise from the ridge. The stars were bright for the start of my walk with the Milky Way clearly visible. There was no moon and so the walk was in pitch black with the eyes of deer reflecting back. As I went up into the corrie the sky had started to lighten and I was able to turn off the head torch. A scrambling section alongside the river had patches of ice which was easy to navigate around on the ascent and I, of course, gave no thought to the descent through the same area. It was time for crampons again as I hit the snow line. I reached the ridge just as the sun was coming up with the surrounding snow-topped hills changing to a pink hue. Watching the landscape in the changing light was a pure delight and the low sun emphasised the three dimensions of the hills. As I reached the rim of Coire na Tulaich I could see that someone had in the last few days ascended there up the large bank of snow. I was happy with my own route choice. On going back along the ridge I felt low on energy despite it not being lunchtime (and not even Elevenses). A surprisingly long time into my lassitude I worked out that I had been walking for 6 hours and was in need of nourishment despite the early hour.
The scramble back down was more intense than the way up. Picking out safe routes amongst the steep rock and ice taxed my siesta-yearning brain. One dislodged rock bounced down into the waterfall in a demonstration of what could potentially happen to my head. On the route out I realised I had not seen a single soul, even from the distance, on the whole walk. I suspect not many have had the Buachaille all to themselves.
Wednesday 14th April
Stob Ban
18km 852m ascent
I met with Irene (club member, girlfriend) in Speanbridge before heading up to Corriechoile. The last time I had been here was with the club in 2019 and the track was as rough as I remembered. We said hello to the creepy minister before walking to Lairag Leacache bothy. We could have biked to the bothy but we did not have a particularly long day ahead. The sunshine was persisting with some passing clouds.
From the bothy we found the eroded path which takes you easily up to the shoulder below the main summit. The summit itself still looked wintery in comparison to the spring on the lower slopes. Although it was a clear day the valley was slightly mired in the smoke of multiple nearby heather fires. From the top there were clear views all round with the distinct shape of Schiehallion to the South East. Another walker said he could make out Ben Lomond.
We walked back the same way (cheerio to the creepy minister) and departed ways. I drove to Loch Arkaig having decided tomorrow was looking good for a longer day out.
Thursday 15th April
Sgurr Nan Coireachan, Garbh Chioch Mhor, Sgurr na Ciche
26.6km 1505m ascent
Loch Arkaig is a completely new area for me and I enjoyed the undulating drive along its northern side. I was slightly apprehensive about this walk since descriptions of its rugged-ness and exhausting scale were prominent in some route guides alongside be-nighted experiences.
Due to the heavy handed descriptions I set off early at 6am so I would not feel under time pressure should I meet any unexpected obstacle. The snow looked patchy enough to rid myself of the heavy boots and crampons. Rather than walking along the bog to upper Glendessary I again opted for a bike and hike. The bike I took as far a footbridge across a small gorge not marked on the 1:50 OS which led to a faint path up to the south slope of Sgurr Nan Coireachan. An hour of walking was saved. The ascent up the steep grassy slope did not last long. Looking over the ridge from the top Sgurr na Ciche looked far away and formidable. The ridge was interspersed with pockets of snow and I had a moment of self doubt on whether I had the energy.
That was quickly forgotten though as I scrambled along the rough rocky ridge to Garbh Chioch Mor. I could not see the path due to snow but wanted to follow the top of the ridge and enjoy picking out routes up and over the rocky outcrops. The sheer drop into the rugged corrie below was a real “terrible beauty”. Awesome to look at but a fearsome reminder of my own fragility.
From the bealach below, Sgurr na Ciche is less formidable and its top is very quickly gained via another boulder filled scramble. It is another day of pure air clarity with wide ranging views. I truly have been lucky with the weather.
For the descent I went through the unpleasant gully between Sgurr na Ciche and Garbh Chioch Mhor. It is filled with wet slippery rocks. The small amount of snow at the sides is soft with deep hidden holes and the grass is wet. I hated it and may try a higher traverse before descending if coming this way again. The exit back to my bike from there is simple after finding an ATV track back along the river. The sun is shining bright and I am pleased with not feeling as exhausted as Walkhighlands told me I was going to be.
Friday 16th April
No hills
Distance ?100metres. Ascent ?20metres
The area of high pressure is still holding for today and tomorrow and more hills are certainly possible. I decide to try achieving some balance of activity though and am happy to stay at home, cook good food and drink nice wine. Although missing a good weather day today more will come.
My total self propelled distance for the week was 104.7km and total ascent was 6339m. I am glad to have settled in the Highland region with a diversity of hills and wide playing field. It was a week of unfettered ambling despite any ongoing restrictions.
To borrow the club bards oft-used phrase:
Montani Semper Liberi
“A mountaineer is always free”
Dan Simpson